Car Necromancy

[GlytchMeister]

So I smashed the front of my car (a 2001 dodge stratus 2.7L V-6) a while ago. Five car pileup and I was the last one in.
I've already done the Humpty-Dumpty part of the work. I replaced the radiator, both headlight assemblies, the air filter assembly, the radiator core support and the core support struts, the bumper, the hood, and bent all the metal I couldn't replace back to where it should be (or at least close enough).
I've also repaired the ECM with Liquid Nails Perfect Glue to repair the gel on the inside and JB Weld to repair the metal casing.

It starts and runs (I had my "It's alive!" moment a couple days ago).

What I need help with is how to fill the radiator fast. Right now I'm stuck with pouring a tiny bit of fluid into the overflow tank, closing the cap, starting the engine, letting it run for 30 seconds, turning it off, opening the cap to let the air bubble out, and repeating.
Which is really freakin' slow.

Is there a better way to do this?

[Dave]

According to

http://www.ehow.com/how_5118543_fill-radiator.html

there ought to be a coolant bleeder screw somewhere. If you open this, it creates an air exit from the cooling system... so you can pour coolant in through the cap or the overflow tank, and it'll flow through the system. Once coolant starts to flow out of the bleeder screw and isn't bubbling any more, you'll know that you've filled the system most of the way.

Apparently you should also turn the heater full-on before doing this, to allow a free flow of coolant through the heat exchange tubing.

[TazManiac]

If your radiator doesn't have a radiator cap, (some don't, relying heavily on the Overflow Tank for refills and periodic topping-off), then you can refill your system most of the way by premixing a gallon of coolant/distilled water and pour it directly into the block, via temporarily disconnected Radiator Hose.

Choose one that is up high and have the motor be cool to the touch. In some cases this top most hose will not be the best choice because of the closed thermostat a cool motor presents, if so, remove the hose from the motor's side and back fill most of the coolant system by pouring your premix down that hose, into the Radiator.

Hmm, that was 'all in one breath', stream of consciousness mode. -still- should be of use.

[GlytchMeister]

Thanks guys.
I'll see how both suggestions work tomorrow. I may have more questions as I continue to work on the undead Frankenstratus.

[shadowinthelight]

WISE FWOM YOW GWAVE!

[MerchManDan]

Thanks guys.
I'll see how both suggestions work tomorrow. I may have more questions as I continue to work on the undead Frankenstratus.

Just remember: Do NOT use the abnormal brain--I mean, carburetor.

[shadowinthelight]

Just remember: Do NOT use the abnormal brain--I mean, carburetor.

I was always aware of but never really watched that cartoon. Will definitely have to do so now.
"Here's your Netherworld driver's license."
"Eww. It's covered with lice."
"Whadaya expect? It's a lice-ence!"

[Atomic]

There ought to be a radiator cap somewhere. See below. Trace the overflow tank bottom hose to the radiator and that's where the cap should be. Open that and fill (cold engine) -- let the bubbles settle and keep filling to almost the top. Replace cap, add fluid to overflow tank fill line (and no more), then start and warm engine, heater on full. Let cool, check level in radiator, top off as needed, top off overflow tank as needed.

In this picture, the cap is at the top right with a small pipe sticking out to the right -- that is where the overflow tank hose connects. I think this picture is from the engine side, so your fill cap would be on the left as you look at the engine.



Also, there's a bleed valve to let air out also:



Radiator Fill Video

And these may help also: Bing Search

Good luck!

[DinkyInky]

Atomic, it's Chrysler corps. They had that time frame where the smegtacular design team thought the most logical place to put the radiator cap was near where the valve cover is, and depending on year, some of the caps are plasticky rubber covered things. It's a strange radiator design, that's for darn sure.
Only way to know for sure is to pull the caps off cold and take a whiff. I gorramin' hated working on those things!

Glytch, if you can, find a Chilton's or Haynes bible for your car. Best money ever spent. I get one for every car I own shortly after deciding to keep them, and it saves time and money on the little issues, like where Chrysler hid all the darn caps and dipsticks.
If not, or if money is tight, see if a local Dodge dealership can point it out in a picture of your engine. They usually will do it in hopes you remember and buy your next car from them.

[Sgt. Howard]

If the engine sits sideways and powers the front axle, I won't own it. Anything more ambitious than an oil change and step 1 is 'pull the engine'.
I own;
1996 GMC Suburban
1994 Ford Aerostar Van
2006 Subaru Outback
1977 Toyota Celica GT
1974 VW bug

I can work on any one of them

[GlytchMeister]

Arright. I got it all going.
Current condition:
Essential repairs needed-
Need to replace front passenger shock.
Need to figure out power brakes issue; I found a sheared-off vacuum hose, and that was causing lack of power brakes. After plugging it with some gorilla tape and a stay-tie, they now work. I'm going to the junkyard later this weekend to figure out how to properly fix it.
Repairs for confident long-distance driving-
New ECM (replace the Humpty-Dumpty ECM)
New connectors on the main harness (pull pins and put them into the new connectors)
Take car to a shop to read the error codes responsible for the yellow engine light

The upshot is I can now drive to work. Which is super awesome, as I no longer need to use über or mooch rides.

[Dave]

Arright. I got it all going.

Way cool - congrats!

It might be that the "check engine" light was triggered by a vacuum leak/fault, due to the power brake line being chopped off.

There are some very inexpensive ODB 2 readers available these days. I bought one at Harbor Freight, but there are even less expensive ones available on eBay - the ones which plug into a laptop USB port and use a program to display/reset the codes can be had for under $10, and units with a simple code read / reset display start at around $20. Having your own ODB2/CAN reader is a good investment, especially at prices like that.

[GlytchMeister]

I kinda figured screwed up brakes would make the brake warning light turn on... *shrug*

[Warrl]

Top priority is making sure brakes work reliably. A car that won't start can be inconvenient, but one that won't stop can be fatal.

[GlytchMeister]

Top priority is making sure brakes work reliably. A car that won't start can be inconvenient, but one that won't stop can be fatal.

Well, even if the power brakes fail again, I'll still have ye olde brakes. Good enough. I'm going to the junkyard tomorrow to see what I can do.
The junkyard is literally 3 minutes away, so no sweat.

Thanks for the concern, though.

[Atomic]

Ok and congrats! A couple of things though:

Working brakes very very important. Low brake fluid may also be the reason for the light.

Places like Auto Zone and Advance Auto Parts will read Engine codes for free. Call to see if your local folks will do that for you.

Shocks -- always replace by pairs. If your one bad one is a MacPherson strut, it's not just a shock, it's part of the steering assembly. Plan carefully and trim your nose hair so you can pay through it more easily.

Vacuum hoses are cheap -- and replacing them is cheap insurance. Check for cracked/stiff hoses and swap them out to whatever degree you intend on keeping the car.

When changing the air filter, there's usually at least one vacuum hose that gets knocked loose. If the car becomes hard to start or idles poorly after a filter change, check the stuff you moved around to change the filter.

Check the oil level regularly. Keep it topped up. Change the oil/oil filter. Regularly. No oil == dead engine fast.

Happy nursemaiding!

[GlytchMeister]

So... On my drive to work today, my car was behaving very strangely. It was idling weird, running kinda rough, making new sounds. Also, the temperature was going higher than it had ever gone before, but not quite to the red line.
After a bit more gentle driving, the rpm began to oscillate and then, when I stopped, the engine just died.
But I needed to get to work, and I couldn't push the car out of the road and make it on time.
So I started it again, and it got me to work.
Upon parking, I popped the hood and beheld oil. All over the place. It had sprayed from somewhere, leaving a Rorschach test on the underside of the hood and making a mess everywhere else. It had landed on some hot bits, where it began to smoke.
My dad came and looked at it while I've been working (I'm on break now), and said the oil is high but he didn't see any more spray out, which apparently means the FrankenStratus has been dumping engine coolant into the oil system.

He said that means the engine is shot to shit.

Were gonna look more tomorrow, but in the meantime, what other possibilities are there, and is it possible to fix an engine that has been lubed with water/oil instead of oil?

[Dave]

Ummm... that's not good.

I am but an egg at this, but it sounds as if the first suspect would be a blown or leaking head gasket... it can create this kind of cross-circulatory-system fistula, and all the symptoms seem to be consistent with what you observed.

This can apparently create some pretty substantial damage... eroding, warping, or otherwise damaging the head or the engine block. Machining or replacement may be required.

The scope of the repairs is going to depend on how much damage was done, and I imagine that's certainly going to require pulling the head and inspecting everything.

Don't start the engine again until you get it looked at, of course... plan to have the car towed to a repair shop. The sooner the better.

[TazManiac]

You almost certainly have a blown head gasket.

Look under the oil filler cap for what looks like odd colored mayonnaise. If its there, thats exactly what it is, only you cant eat it. If present it is emulsified oil and coolnt.

It's time to check online forums specific to your make/model to gain info based on experience with that exact type car. (See that assumption in the first line.)

Thats even if you don't intend to fully repair it yourself, you want to go in with a better diagnosis than you have now.

Getting a Compression Test is going to help pin it down.

Running it the way you did doesn't automatically mean it's toast, but there will come a time when you are going to weigh the cost/benefit ratio and make a decision. I'm a 'fix it yersel' kinda guy, but it doesn't come automatically , it takes time, tutelage, trail and error when you find you didn't think it should, and of course blood, sweat and tears.

Check the coolant level, the oil level, and look for obvious places the oil is coming out from. It might be something as simple as a blown gasket on an external oil/transmission cooler line.

[DinkyInky]

If ya wanna learn how to rebuild an engine and transmission, this is a prime opportunity. Lucky for you, it's on a Stratus, and not a '92 Ranger XLT extended cab. Oh, and that yer a guy and have male family that can help. Even with the cherry picker and hydraulic jacks, lifting that stupid engine and tranny was a pain in the everywhere. I'm 5'3", even with the extra muscle I used to have, it hurt. I know now I NEVER wanna rebuild another smegging truck again.

It could be so many things that caused the issue, but unless you get every bit of that gunk out of your block, if you didn't crack it now, you will when you start her up again.

Wish I could give a positive, but from experience, it's sounding like an engine rebuild.